Method of making shoes.



E. 0. TEAGUE.

METHOD OF MAKING SHOES- APPLICATION FILED MAR. 25, 19M.

'Patented May 4, 1915.

' To all whom it may concern EDWARD O. TEAGUE, OF WINCHESTER, MASSACHUSETTS.

METHOD OF MAKING SHOES.

Specification of Letters Patent Patented May a, 1915.

Application filed March 25, 1914. Serial No. 827,129.

Be it known that I, EDWARD O. TEAGUE, a citizen of the United States, and residing at Winchester, in the county of Middlesex and State of. Massachusetts, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Methodsfof Making Shoes, of which the following is a specification. I

This invention relates to shoes, and more particularly, to a method of making shoes.

The McKay shoe has the outsole attached to the lasted upper and insole, while the latter is supported on a horn, so that the seam of fasteners (whether .McKay stitched or nailed) .passes through the outsole, upper and insole. Sometimes, a slipsole or middle sole, is placed between the lasted upper and outsole, and the fasteners, in that case, pass through the outsole, slipsole, upper and insole, while, a line of stitching is run around the edge of the shoe through the outsole and slipsole. This gives a shoe the appearance of a Goodyear welt shoe. Many attempts have been made to attach the welt to the lasted upper of a McKay shoe by a seam passing through the welt, upper and insole, but without success, for the reason that it is exceedingl difficult, and, as 'a matter of fact, practically impossible to properly'position the welt on such an upper with the required accuracy.

The materials used for weltmg, and for sli soles or middle soles, is comparatively thin, that is, 3/32 to 1/8 of an inch thick.

Such wclting or middle sole is laid with the flesh side out, so that the grain side will be uppermost and visible when the shoe is on the foot of the wearer. If it is, therefore, attempted to attach such welting by a seam of metallic fasteners, and, if the heads of' the fasteners are countersunkin the flesh side, the strength of the seam will be insuiiishoe having a neat appearance.

fore, is to evolve a method of making .a shoe whereby the welt will be positioned accurately on the lasted upper, and attached thereto in such a manner as to result in a .rnotheriobjectistoevolve a method of strengthening the weltmg, or middle sole,

of a shoe, whereby pulling through of the fastener heads is prevented.

Further objects Will appear from the detail description taken in connection with the accompanying drawing, in which:

Figure 1 is a side elevation of a shoe, Fig. 2 is an enlarged bottom view of the shoe before the outsole is laid, Fig. 3 is a bottom view of the middle sole, Fig. 4 is a section on the line 4-4, Fig. 3, Fig. 5is an enlarged detail'fof Fig. 4, Fig. 6 is a section on the line ("i-*6, Fig. 2, Fig. 7 is a similar section showing the outsole attached, Fig. 8 is a section on-the line 88, Fig. 6, Fig. 9 is asection on the line 9-9, Fig. 7, and, Fig.10 is an enlarged detail of Fig. 9.

Referring to the accompanying drawing, 10 designates the upper, ll the insole, 12 the outsole, and 13 the heeiof a shoe. The upper 15 lasted over the insole in accordancewiththe usual McKay method.

A. center piece 14, died out to the contour of the outsole, but smaller, has attached 16', so that the welt conforms to the contour of. thecenter piece, and, therefore, the outsole, and lies in the plane of the templet,

that is, with" both of its surfaces'flush with the surfaces of the tcmplet, whereby the center piece and welt will form, in effect, a single composite but flexible sole structure. The outer face or flesh side of the welt has laid thereon, and preferably cemented thereto, astrip .ofcanvas or other textile material 17, this strip being preferably laid in position before the welt is stitched to the center piece.

'ljhe middle sole, so formed, is now laid on the lasted upper and insole of the shoe, with the reinforced side out, and temporarily secured in position, in the usual way, by a few temporary nails. it will, therefore, be seen that the center piece i l performs the function of a templet, or positionin' means, for positioning and locating the we t on the shoe. The composite middle sole 'lS now secured to the lasted upper and insole by a seam of fasteners passing through the welt, upper and insole. This may be done in any suitable manner, as with a McKay stitcher, or with a McKay nailer. In the specific embodinient shown, the seam is formed with the metallic fasteners shown in United States Patent #1,072,213, Sept. 2, 1913. Such a fastener is shown enlarged in Fig. 10, and comprises a shank 18, a laterally extending head 19, and a oint 20. The fastener is driven into the s cc from without, so that the laterall extending head 19 will lie along the we t, and so that the clenched point 20 will be turned back into the insole, with the head and clenched point extending in the same direction along the seam, as shown in Fi 8. It will, however, be noted that the strip 17 is interposed between the head of the fastener and the welt.

After the middle sole has been secured in position, the outsole 12 is laid and secured by a line of stitches 21 passing through the outsole and the welt.

The space between the insole and the center piece 14 may be filled with a suitable filling 22, although this space will ordinarily be very small, in view of the fact that the center piece is in the plane of the welt. Although the middle sole is only shown as extending to or slightly beyond the heel of the shoe, as is usual in McKay and Welt practice, the middle sole may, however, extend the full length of the shoe. The center piece may be made of any cheap material, such as tar paper.

The built-up middle sole or slipsole thus comprises a center piece forming a templet for accurately positioning and locating the welt on the shoe and with respect to the shoe. The welt is attached to the edge of the centerpiece and is arranged in the plane thereof. This center piece holds the welt flat and to a contour following the outline of the insole, while the welt is attached, whereby the attached welt, as positioned on the shoe, will have a uniform and neat appearance. The shoe, as completed, therefore, will have the appearance of a welt shoe, in which the welt is attached uniformly and accurately to the upper and to the outsole. By arranging the welt in the plane of the templet, and by attaching the welt to its templet by the cross-stitching, the connection between the two is loose and flexible, thereby permitting independent movement of the parts, resulting not only in a flexible sole, but in one which will not squeak.

By placing the fabric strip 17 along the outer face or flesh side of the welt, this strip will form a washer between the head of the nail and the welt, whereby greater resistance is ofiered to the head pulling through the welt. This strip, therefore, increases the holding qualities of the Welt, and increases the strength of the flesh side, so as to be equal to or greater than that of the grain side. This holding quality is further in creased'by cementing the strip to the welt. In referring to Fig. 10, it will be noted that the head 19 of the fastener is not completely countersunk, as this would decrease the holding power of the welt, but the fastener is simply driven in an amount suliicient to obtain the proper tight seam between the parts. There is no objection to the head projecting a slight distance, as this head will sink into the outsole when the outsole is attached, as shown in Fig. 10. It will be seen, however, that the head carries the fabric with it slightly into the welt, but this fabric forms a protectingwasher of greater strength than the welt in itself. This method of reinforcing the seam, together with the structure of the fastener having a laterally extending head and a clenching point, results in a seam having great strength and durability. It is obvious that this method of reinforcing may be used in other constructions than in the specific welt seam described, but may be used in other places in shoes; thus, it may be used in forming the seam for attaching the usual slipsole or middle sole, to the shoe.

It is obvious that various changes may be made in the details of the method with out departing from the spirit of this invention, and it is, therefore, to be understood that this invention is not to be limited to the specific details described and shown.

Having thus described the invention, what is claimed is:

l. The method of making shoes, which comprises, laying a strip of reinforcing material along one face of a welt or middle sole, attaching the welt to the upper and insole of a lasted shoe by a metallic fastener seam passing through the welt and the strip thereon and the upper and insole and attaching an outsole to the welt.

2. The method of making shoes, which comprises, cementing a strip of reinforcing material along one face of a welt or middle sole, attaching the welt to the upper and insole of a lasted shoe by a metallic fastener seam passing through the welt and the strip thereon and the upper and insole and attaching an outsole to the welt.

3. The method of making shoes, whichv comprises, laying a strip of reinforcing material along the outer face of a welt or middle sole, attaching the welt to the upper and insole of a lasted shoe by a seam of metallic fasteners passing through the welt and the strip thereon and the upper and insole and attaching an outsole to the welt.

4. The method of making shoes, which comprises, laying a strip of reinforcing material along the outer face of a welt or middle sole, attaching the welt to the upper and insole of a lasted shoe by a seam of metallic fasteners, passing through the welt and the strip thereon and the upper and insole, and having laterally extending heads engaging the1 strip, and attaching an outsole to the we t.

5. The method of making shoes, which comprises attaching a welt to a templet to strip out on a lasted shoe, attaching the welt to the upper and insole of a lasted shoe by a seam of metallic fasteners passing through the welt and the strip thereon and the upper amll insole, and attachingan'outsole to the we t.

' In testimony whereof I afiix my signature 20 in the presence of these two witnesses.

EDWARD O. TEAGUE.

Witnesses:

MARY A. KELLEY, JAMES F. KENNEDY. 

